7/23/2023 0 Comments Undercover jun takahashiThe two eventually solidified a friendship and their relationship would be key to UNDERCOVER’s inevitable global expansion. It was a big hit and one of fashion’s most notable figures, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons took notice right away. In 1994, Takahashi staged his first women’s runway show in Japan. The establishment would evolve and every weekend, massive lines would form outside the shop by customers wanting to get their hands on pieces from brands like NIGO’s A BATHING APE, TET’s and Skatething’s 40% AGAINST RIGHTS and Fujiwara and Takahashi’s ANARCHY FOREVER FOREVER ANARCHY. It started carrying mostly UNDERCOVER products and NIGO’s outsourced American and vintage items that also included hard-to-find sneakers. NOWHERE opened its doors in 1993 and was considered the quintessential store in Harajuku for the best streetwear brands. After Fujiwara, friends NIGO and Jun Takahashi continued the column in the form of “Last Orgy 2.” Consequently, the duo also used the platform as a springboard for their first collaborative retail shop, NOWHERE. It became a late night television show and would lay the inspirational groundwork for contemporary Japanese fashion brands. Around 1988, street culture legend Hiroshi Fujiwara started a column in Takarajima magazine called “Last Orgy,” which explored hip-hop, punk, DJing and skate culture. The late ’80s and early ’90s played a crucial part to the formation of UNDERCOVER. “We Make Noise, Not Clothes” is more than just one of the label’s popular slogans, it’s a testament to the creative force Jun Takahashi has become over the years. Here, we explore some of the works and concepts that has pushed the Japanese brand to the forefront of fashion and beyond, from its early Ura-Harajuku days to its ever-expanding global presence in high-end, fast retail and street culture. UNDERCOVER just celebrated its 25th anniversary last year - its longevity is evidenced by the dedicated fans who’ve always had an unyielding trust for Mr. Naturally, in everything Jun Takahashi does, the avant-garde element will always be at play no matter what. He’s even created sculptures, homeware products, toys and films that fully exhibit the house’s powerfully imaginative vision. We see this in Jun Takahashi’s other ambitious projects as well, such as NOWHERE (his retail shop with NIGO), his diffusion lines and fruitful collaborations with BAPE, Uniqlo, Nike, and Supreme to name a few. Progress is paramount and the label gets courageously creative every year, while still passionately keeping in focus its rebelliously street and punk-centric narrative. Either way, his tweaked and twisted sportswear is easy to get behind.It’s within that promise that UNDERCOVER will always be seen as one of fashion’s most groundbreaking design houses. Oversize floral prints could’ve been exploding bombs. Royalty is a motif Takahashi has used before to equally witty effect, but the vibe was slightly more incendiary this time around. For every “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts list. The Stones’s young faces stared out from inside the four suits of a card deck on a miniskirt and at the hems of pants. In another sign he’s down with the people, he co-opted low-culture concert T-shirts for high-fashion purposes. It could’ve been a silly exercise, but Takahashi is a clever tailor, with a wicked sense of humor. There were zip-up pockets front and back and on the hips some jackets were so transformed that their fronts were mere straps covering bare breasts. To start, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to give his tailoring a ready-for-battle attitude. Takahashi came at his insurrectionary message both subtly and less so. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a live version of the Rolling Stones’s song for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.” After his show at the Cirque d’Hiver today, Takahashi talked about righteous aggression. Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections usually have a message, but you don’t have to get his deeper meanings to appreciate what he does.
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